The idyllic image of the large Italian family crammed around a table overflowing with lavish traditional fare may be a thing of the past. Many of today’s Italians, like today’s Americans, are bustling and career-driven, with women giving up their roles as kitchen matriarchs for professional pursuits. Without forsaking their taste, more Italians are taking casual meals in restaurants, sampling from the traditional first-course antipasti menu in the interest of tasting more without running up exorbitant tabs.

In her new book, Antipasti, Bay Area chef Joyce Goldstein reminds us that the small-plate movement is alive and well in America too, most notably in the explosion of tapas bars. It’s an appropriate reaction to our varied, fast-paced culture. Goldstein, who has cooked small-plate style for years at her San Francisco restaurant Square One, presents antipasti as the perfect food for entertaining or family sampling. Speed and ease are emphasized, and for the most time-pressed hosts, she offers a shop-and-serve antipasti menu, recommending tasty combinations of vegetables, meats, breads and cheeses that can be served in a pinch. There are plenty of traditional antipasti here, from Goat Cheese with Spicy Tomato Sauce, Sicilian Sweet-and-Sour Eggplant, and Meat-Stuffed Fried Olives, to variations on stuffed and marinated vegetables and spreads for crostini and bruschetta.

The rise of antipasti has spurred a creative departure from tradition, and even amateur cooks are encouraged to stretch themselves with these small preparations. Start with Fried Zucchini Blossoms or Meat-Filled Omelet Rolls and move on to Sweet Red Pepper Tart with Anchovy Cream, Shellfish Salad with Oranges and Fennel, Shrimp with Pea Puree (or Grapefruit!), and Cauliflower Pudding. All of these antipasti are derived from Goldstein’s extensive knowledge of Italian cooking, and she recommends the appropriate wine to serve with each antipasto. Like the dishes themselves, the book is simple and elegant, stressing the sensual experience of food.

Order Antipasti: Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates at
TurnRow Book Co.