Mashed potatoes were the hot restaurant trend a few years back, so much so that it’s almost impossible to find a simple baked potato at a chain restaurant today. And while a mash dolled up with garlic and cream, chives and bacon, or shredded cheese is delicious, I never understood the appeal of some of the more unusual combinations.

Despite the fact that mashed potatoes are a bit overdone in restaurants, they’re still the ultimate comfort food. Tired of pairing spring entrees with pasta or rice, I sought a way to add spring zing to mashed potatoes, and I stumbled across an old recipe that used buttermilk in the preparation. The tart flavor of the milk made the potatoes the perfect base for more flavor, and I’ve added garlic, lemon zest and chives. These potatoes are the perfect accompaniment to Chicken with Lemon, Artichokes and Grape Tomatoes (posted on this site), but also pair well with any grilled fish.

• 3 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 6 tablespoons butter
• 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 medium cloves)
• 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh or frozen chives
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add about 2 teaspoons of salt. Add potatoes and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and return to the pot and mash potatoes with the buttermilk.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in lemon zest and chives, remove from heat and set aside. Stir lemon butter into the potatoes, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Makes 6 servings.