When the newspapers are spread out on the picnic table, you can be sure a Southern fish fry is about to proceed. And when the fish is fried, you can bet that hushpuppies will be next to hit the hot oil.

Hushpuppies are simply cornmeal fritters, and you’ll find them on seafood and barbecue buffets throughout the Deep South. I like my hushpuppies plain and simple, seasoned with just a bit of chopped yellow or green onion and a bit of sugar, but you can add chopped jalapeno, bacon and whole kernel corn, too.

When the oil reaches 350 degrees, the cornmeal batter is dropped in by teaspoons. Slide the batter off the tip of the spoon for round hushpuppies, or off the side of the spoon for ovals. Sprinkle the hushpuppies with salt immediately after removing them from the oil for extra flavor.

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 cups yellow cornmeal
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion or 2 green onions, finely chopped
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 1/2 to 2 cups buttermilk
• Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying
• Salt

Sift the all-purpose flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt and cayenne together over a large bowl. Stir in the green onions, eggs and 1 1⁄2 cups of buttermilk. Stir gently and add additional buttermilk if the batter is too thick (it should be the consistency of thick cornbread batter).

Pour oil into a large, heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of 2 inches and heat over medium-high to 350 degrees F. Drop 8 to 10 spoonfuls of the batter into the hot oil and cook until golden brown, turning often, for about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with salt. Continue with remaining batter.

Makes 8 servings.